Viktor Rolf in the Twentyfirst Century
The fashion media's attraction to their exaggerated silhouettes and noteworthy runway performances has always played an integral role in the shaping of the Viktor amp Rolf brand identity. With no advertising campaigns, no self-standing boutiques, and no mass-produced clothes to sell, their early relationship with the public depended heavily on the generous amounts of press coverage they received each season. Close collaborations with photography teams Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, as...
Customization
The demand for customization of products, services and web experiences is an aspect of the increasing expectations of online consumers. In the present luxury market, consumers desire to be recognized and provided with personal attention. In line with this, they expect the websites of luxury brands to provide tools to customize and personalize their experiences with the brands. One method of achieving this is through implementing techniques that aid in manipulating features of web pages such as...
Price Determination
When I was a freshman in college, I worked for the successful photographer John Harrington, based in Washington, DC. Author of Best Business Practices for Photographers, he was a wealth of knowledge on how to run a business, handle clients, retain clients, determine pricing and licensing, and much more. I highly recommend his book to anyone serious about their business as a photographer. One of the things that Harrington taught me early on is that people often see prices as directly correlating...
The Ancient Sandal
Western culture traces the origins of the sandal from ancient Egyptian tombs, the earliest evidence dating from around the period of unification, about 5,100 years ago. A frieze in the Cairo museum depicts the Pharaoh Narmer followed by his sandal bearer, suggesting the sandals were a symbol of the pharaoh's sovereignty. This is underscored by the ancient Egyptian practice of placing the Pharaoh's sandals upon his throne in his absence. Sandals were status-oriented for the elite, beginning with...
Leggings
In cool weather or rough terrain men and women of nearly every Native American tribe wore leggings to protect their legs. Leggings were snug or loose-fitting tubes of animal hide that covered each leg individually. Men's leggings covered the leg from waist or thigh to ankle. The top of the leggings was tied to a string, belt, or sash wrapped around the waist, and sometimes the leggings were gartered, or tied, at the knee. The leggings resembled crotchless pants and men wore them with...
Geoffrey Beene
Awards National Cotton Council Award, 1964, 1969 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1964, 1966, 1968, 1974, 1975, 1977, 1981, 1982 Neiman Marcus Award, 1965 Ethel Traphagen Award, 1966 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1986, 1987, 1989 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Lifetime Achievement Award, 1988 Geoffrey Beene graduated from high school in Haynesville, Louisiana, when he was sixteen. In 1943 he enrolled in Tulane University to study medicine but soon found himself...
Claude Montana
Awards Best Women's Collection, Paris Opera, 1985 Best European Designer, Munich, 1987 Balenciaga Prize Best Designer, Madrid, 1989 Prix Medicis, 1989 Fragrance Foundation Award, 1990 De d'Or Award Golden Thimble for Lanvin , 1990, 1991 Claude Montana grew up in a well-to-do family, but he did not want to pursue the professional career his family would have preferred. After leaving home in his late teens and getting by on odd jobs, including one as an extra at the Paris Opera, he went to London...
The Carlovingian Period 1
Earliest times of the Carlovingian perioc Variety of costume in the provinces Fashions in the Duchy of France French taste dating from the eleventh century Luxury increases with each generation The dominical The bliaud Canes of apple-wood Women in the twelfth century Head-dresses Afiche Serpent-tails Pelisses The thirteenth century Greves and veils are in fashion The couvre-chef in the fourteenth century The skirt, or cotte-hardie, surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and...
Dragon Robes
The dragon is one of the most ancient and powerful symbols in Chinese culture. A composite of many animals, including a snake, an eagle, a tiger, and a devil, the dragon symbolized the natural world and transformation. It was associated with Chinese emperors from at least the first century B.C.E. Beginning late in the Song dynasty 960-1279 C.E. , emperors began to wear luxurious robes decorated with figures of dragons. By the time of the Qing dynasty 1644-1911 , the dragon robe, in its many...
The Suit Jacket
liilo fabrics and patterns usually attract the eye first, the suit's proportions anchor it in time. A suit extreme in silhouette is more likely to go out of style before it falls apart. In assessing a suit jackets potential life span, five elements of design require particular attention these arc the garment's bones. Should the coat s architecture conflict w itli that of the wearer or dev iate too far from the archety pe, the coat s stay ing power will be significantly weakened. the jacket...
Window Light
Since the beginning of portrait photography, photographers have utilized the beautiful qualities of window light to illuminate their images. Window light can be soft and directional. By moving your subject in relation to the window, you can literally watch as the window light helps shape and carve the face while maintaining its soft qualities. Figure 8.8 show a traditional use of window light for portraiture. Light is soft and flattering, with the window to the left of the frame. The light...
Lensbaby
Lensbaby manufactures lenses and attachments that allow your camera to create a similar effect to view camera, bellows camera, or tilt shift lenses. You can adjust the plane of focus so it is no longer parallel to the film plane or digital censor of your camera. In other words, you can vary your plane of focus so that the depth of field is not just foreground to background, but side to side, or on a specific area of the image. Using the Lensbaby tools, you can choose a narrow plane of focus...
Earn while you learn Mkm
The obove illustration is a line drawing which is to be reproduced as a line cut. The line work can vary from a thin line to solid black. Observe how the artist, by the use of accents, was able to show the lace material and the fashion details. This line and wash drawing is quite similar to the first figure but, because a wash has been added, it must be reproduced as a haJf-tone plate and not as a line cut. The wash added to the line drawing gives a softer feeling to the material of the...
GO TO Painterly effect No2 main menu
KISSING PRACTICE - A DEMONSTRATION PAINTING - PART 2 In Fig.5 I have brought some of the highlights forward by use of a higher value blue-gray and added some wings. This stage you could call 'molding' the forms or to use its proper terminology you could call it the application of chiaroscuro. This was the method made famous by the Renaissance painter Carravaggio and copied in the north by painters such as Rembrandt, Rubens and Vermeer. Adding wings and cool grays Scumbling with some highlights...
From A Costume
Lesson VI, Fig. R and is gathered in with the under-waist at the belt where it blouses over the girdle. Lesson II, Fig. C. Question. What kind of a sleeve has it Answer. A long kimona sleeve Lesson VI, Fig. R fulled into a deep gauntlet. Lesson VI, Fig. Q. Question. Of what does the skirt consist Answer. Three deep flounces, the lower two being sewed on the underskirt. The two lower flounces are the same depth while the top one is longer. The latter hangs down as low as the sleeve. Question....
Footwear of Early Asian Cultures
I he Chinese were one of the first ancient peoples to develop a wide range of footwear. Shoes made from woven and stitched straw have been dated to about 5000 B.C.E. and tanned leather footwear with stitching has been dated to about 2000 B.C.E. Given the wide ranges of climate found in China, the types of shoes worn varied considerably by region. People in the warmer coastal areas wore straw sandals, while those in the colder mountainous regions wore thick leather shoes and knee-length boots....
Chapter Xxix
Sunshades, en-tout-cas, metis, in 1862 Sailors' jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets-Princess or demi-princess gowns Swiss bodices corset or postillion belts Lydia and Lalla Rookh jackets Vespertina opera cloaks Lungchamps is no more Bois de Boulogne Russian or Garibaldi bodices Paletot vest Empress Delt 1885 patents for inventions regarding dress are taken out in 1864 Victoria skeleton skirts, Indian stays, train-supporters Titian -coloured hair The Peplum in 1866 Epicycloide steels aquarium...
Velour
Velours is the French word for velvet, and, like velvet, velour is woven by a special process with looped threads that are cut to form a pile, or textured surface. What distinguishes velour from velvet is the fabric from which it is woven. While velvet is most often made of silk or the synthetic fabrics nylon or acetate, velour is loosely woven of cotton, sometimes blended with synthetic fiber. Long used as a drapery and upholstery fabric, particularly in automobiles, velour, when it gained...
The 1950s
Fashions of the 1950s. Chanel started working again at the age of seventy in 1953, partly to boost her flagging perfume sales. Her fashion philosophy remained unchanged she extolled function and comfort in dress and declared her aim of making women look pretty and young. On 5 February 1954 she presented her first postwar collection, a line of understated suits and dresses. The general press response, however, was that Chanel was too old and out of touch with the modern market, and only a few...
and Incas
Though the Mayans, Aztecs, and Incas were separated in time and in geography, their clothing closely resembled each other. In general, children were naked, and men wore loincloths, adding tunics, or shirts, and cloaks in colder weather. The dress of women was more variable. Mayan women wore skirts with or without a scarf tied to cover their breasts, and Aztec and Inca women wore dresses made from a wrapped piece of fabric, or ankle-length tunic dresses. None of the clothing was cut to fit the...
Product Gallery 1
A selection of scarves amp shawls from China Minimum order 1,000 pieces per color Delivery time 30 to 45 days Description Knitted scarf 100 acrylic 27xl60 2xl0cm 166g Minimum order 1,000 pieces per color Delivery time 30 to 45 days Description Knitted scarf 100 acrylic 26xl70 2xl5cm 135g Minimum order 500 pieces per color Delivery time 30 to 45 days Description Woven shawl 100 acrylic 29xl42 2x4cm 74g checkered motif Dragon Group Ltd Models 7SG 32005, 8SG 32006 Minimum order 500 pieces per...
extras and optional
Eraser Plastic for graphite putty erasers for charcoal and pastels to lighten and blend. Fixative Spray Fixes charcoal and pastel drawings preventing the dust spreading and smudging the paper. Full-length mirror Use to observe the balance of your body and poses especially useful in the Oval and Triangle Technique chapter. Knife scalpel With break-off blades to release a sharp, new edge - cuts paper, card and mounting board, sharpens pencils. Masking tape and drawing board clips Holds paper in...
For More Information 1
Connikie, Yvonne. Fashions of a Decade The 1960s. New York Facts on File, 1990. Powe-Temperley, Kitty. 20th Century Fashions The 60s. Milwaukee, WI Gareth Stevens Publishing, 1999. A model wearing a hip-hugging corduroy skirt at a 1966 fashion show. First popular during the 1700s, corduroy was again trendy during the 1960s and 1970s. Reproduced of AP Wide World Photos. gt ometimes called the poor man's velvet, corduroy is a soft, durable fabric that has been popular among people of all classes...
Poiret Bakst and Orientalism
Poiret had an affinity with all things Eastern, claiming to have been a Persian prince in a previous life. Significantly, the first Asian-inspired piece he ever designed, while still at Worth, was controversial. A simple Chinese-style cloak called Confucius, it offended the occidental sensibilities of an important client, a Russian princess. To her grand eyes it seemed shockingly simple, the kind of thing a peasant might wear when Poiret opened his own establishment such mandarin-robe-style...
Short Hair for Women
n an April 1927 issue of Pictorial Review, a well-known opera singer of the 1920s named Mary Garden 1874-1967 wrote an article titled Why I Bobbed My Hair explaining to her fans why she cut off her long hair. She said, Bobbed hair is a state of mind and not merely a new manner of dressing my head. I consider getting rid of our long hair one of the many little shackles that women have cast aside in their passage to freedom. This statement expresses the underlying reason behind the 1920s fad of...
Clothing 19802003
The years between 1980 and 2003 present all the complexities of modern costume. These decades saw a rise and fall in the status of high-profile clothing designers and their extravagant clothes the sudden popularity of certain clothing items, often associated with youth-driven music trends the impact of new technologies the influence of celebrities on fashion all set against a general trend to favor comfortable, casual clothes. These trends were a continuation of the trends that had...
to make a sketu
To make a sketch directly from the dress seems a very difficult problem to the inexperienced art student and it would be if an attempt were made to draw it as one would draw a flower or a vase. But if the student has thoroughly mastered all previous lessons and applies them as this lesson is studied, she will have no difficulty in sketching any costume in a short space of time. In sketching a dress directly from the model, proceed as follows Let us imagine that we are viewing the dress itself...
Antipathy Thinly Veiled and Undisguised Hostility
The reading list for first-year students of fashion design at Kingston University includes The Fashioned Self by the anthropologist and sociologist Joanne Finkelstein. It is my fervent hope that none but those students whose interest in the subject is unshakable should ever chance to get their hands on a copy the book's arguments are presented with a devastatingly seductive logic and an authority that would persuade anyone else to abandon the profession without delay. In the author's words, It...
Woven Neckwear
j cause it allows for highly detailed motifs w hile pro idiiig an incomparable richness of hand, the woven silk tie is regarded as the ne plus ultra of male plumage The weaving process tempers a color's innate brilliance by incorporating it into a complex surface interlacing niak ing the woven four in hand the dressiest of all necktie silks Although wxnens represent .1 small percentage of the total neckwear produced each year, they have returned to favor along with hand tailored clothes and...
Open Shade
If it is an overcast day, it is possible to use no light modifiers. Using open shade comes down to seeing the light. Open shade just means shooting out in the open on a nonsunny day or shooting in an area shielded from direct sunlight. Be sure to turn subjects' faces so that they capture the brightest part of the sky and do not have unsightly shadows in their eyes. This is similar to shooting in direct sunlight because you must carefully watch shadows and highlights, but the light is much more...
Clothing 196179
I n fashion, the 1960s and the 1970s were decades of repeated revolutionary change. The youth explosion and mod craze of the early 1960s were followed quickly by the hippie look of the late 1960s, the antifashion trends of the early 1970s, and the punk and disco styles of the mid- to late 1970s. By the late 1970s, people throughout the West seemed content to wear regular clothes once more. Taken together, these high profile fashion fads forever changed the way the fashion industry worked....
Native American diversity
All parts of Native American life were affected by the climate and geography in which the Native Americans lived. The weather, the fertility of the soil, access to water, and the height of mountains all contributed to how a particular Indian tribe organized its social and political systems. Each was unique. Tribes lived by farming, fishing, hunting, gathering, and later, trading, depending on their particular region and amount of contact with others. The Arapaho of the Plains, for example, were...
Punjabi Suit
he Punjabi suit, also known as the salwar kameez, is an outfit worn primarily by Indian women but also by some men. The Punjabi suit became popular around the time of the Mogul Empire, from 1500 to 1700 c.e., and has continued to be worn by modern Indians to the present day. The Punjabi suit consists of a sleeved tunic-like An Indian official wearing a plain Punjabi suit. Reproduced by permission of Bettmann CORBIS. top that hangs to mid thigh and loose trousers that become narrow at the ankle....
Clothing of Nomads and Barbarians
O ur first records of the groups we know as nomads and barbarians are provided by Romans from as early as about 100 B.C.E. The people who lived in Gaul, present-day France, and the Celts in Britain had a much less developed culture than the Romans, though they had been settled in Europe from as early as about 700 B.C.E. They tended to wear rough garments made of wool, which they gathered from native sheep. These garments included thick wool tunics, crudely sewn at the sides, and heavy wool...
Evolution of Patternmaking
A Madame Demorest tissue-paper pattern for a boy's jacket was advertised in Frank Leslie's Ladies Gazette as early as March 1854. These early patterns were unsized and sold for twenty-five to fifty cents. Starting first with children's garments, Demorest moved to women's dress. The aim was to sell patterns for separate garments bodices, sleeves, mantles, basques that could be used in combination with others. Madame Demorest later made custom patterns by special order available. It was not until...
Photo 1
Imagine all of your shopping needs in one place American Photo Direct makes it possible by bringing a world of unique merchandise into your home. Once you decide on the companies you want to contact, go directly to the website or phone number shown in the ads. It is that easy. So sit down, relax and shop in the comfort of your own home. If you want to advertise your catalog or product in this section, please call toll-free 1-800-445-6066 in the U.S. , 212-767-5750 or fax us at 212-767-5624....
Jewelry 1
The jewelry worn by the Mayan, Aztec, and Inca people was rich in variety and quite beautiful. Without metalworking skills, Mayans made jewelry from many other materials. Mayan men wore nose ornaments, earplugs, and lip plugs made of bone, wood, shells, and stones, including jade, topaz, and obsidian. Necklaces, bracelets, BODY DECORATIONS OF MAYANS, AZTECS, AND INCAS Map of the Americas showing the Mesoamerican civilizations of the Middle Ages Mayans, Aztecs, and Incas. Reproduced by...
coloring up your dressup business wardrobe
tering fabrics I he easiest way to pull together unmatched separates is through the medium of color good rule of thumb w hen harmonizing three different separates is to keep two pieces in he same color family This approach simplifies the melding process and usually yields a more contemporary image. I or example, pairing this navy corduroy sport coat and navy knit shirr strikes .1 more modern mood left than taking the same blue jacket and wearing a different-color shirt right w ith its gray...
India Middle Ages
Choli Dhoti and Lungi 80 Punjabi Modern Islamic Dress box 85 Turbans Foot Forehead Henna Jewelry Jutti Khapusa Life in Ancient Chlaina and Chlamys Doric Ionic Chiton 127 Loin Military Dress 131 Minoan Dress 132 Phrygian Pilos and Petasos 141 Sakkos and Sphendone 142 Cameo and Fibulae Jewelry Metal Boots Sandals Ancient Sumptuary Laws Regulate Luxury box 162 Dalmatica Etruscan Tunica Braids and Hair Coloring 187 Jewelry Signet Where to Learn More lxxv Volume 2 Early Cultures Across the Globe
Head Flattening
A ncient peoples in the Americas practiced head flattening as a mark of social status. Head flattening is the practice of shaping BODY DECORATIONS OF MAYANS, AZTECS, AND INCAS 403 the skull by binding an infant's head. Typically the skull would be wrapped or bound between two boards to form an elongated conical shape. Mayans shaped the heads of the highest ranking children, those of priests and nobles, between two boards for several days after birth. Some Incas also shaped the heads of male...
Knickers
Popular among late-nineteenth-century English country gentlemen, early-twentieth-century sportsmen, and young American boys of both centuries, knickers are short pants that are characterized by a band that fastens tightly at the knee, similar to the breeches of the fifteenth through eighteenth centuries. Usually made of a sturdy fabric like wool or corduroy, knickers have been dressed up with jackets to form knicker suits, and dressed down as the playing uniform for early baseball players....
Hakama
The hakama is a pleated, two-part lower garment usually referred to as either full-cut trousers or a divided skirt. It began as a long trailing garment in ancient times and in more recent times has been worn as a standard part of male ceremonial attire and by martial artists. Originally, the hakama was worn as an outer garment to protect the samurai warriors' legs as they rode their horses, like a cowboy's leather leggings called chaps. As the samurai used horses less, they continued the...
The Twentieth Century 1
By the early twentieth century, the Norfolk jacket, still associated with the rural life enjoyed by the landed gentry and the rich alike, had been modified from its original design. The signature belt and box pleats were removed, and it began to be worn for other country activities, including as garb for spectators at sporting events, and also as an alternative to the traditional suit jacket. The shoulders were fuller, sleeves wider, and the arm-holes larger. The sports jacket gave men the...
Grunge
Grunge fashions, inspired by the look of popular Seattle-based rock bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam, were a fashion sensation of the early to mid-1990s. The casual street look eventually became incorporated into the designs of high fashion. The term grunge was originally a slang term for the heavy guitar-based brand of rock music distributed by the Seattle-based independent record label Sub Pop. Once the Sub Pop band Nirvana hit the top of the charts with its 1991 album Nevermind, grunge...
Beehives and Bouffants
O ne of the most popular women's hairstyles of the late 1950s and early 1960s was the lavishly teased bouffant. The bouffant first surfaced in the 1950s, reflecting a return to big hair for women following a period of plain wartime styles. Two innovations of the late 1950s helped revolutionize hairstyling and paved the way for the bouffant age the roller, used to lift and wind the hair which was then backcombed or teased to give it maximum height and lacquer Woman with hair styled in a...
Woven Textiles
The weave types most commonly encountered in Japanese textiles, regardless of the fiber used, are plain tabby weave, twill weave, satin, damask and other patterned weaves, and brocade. Silk fabrics intended for use in kimono in which the principal decorative elements are batch-dyed or resist-dyed rather than woven or embroidered are usually made in plain weave or damask weave. Colored damasks donsu employing dyed silk warp threads and weft threads in contrasting colors were used without further...
Lovisa Burfitt
I collect my Inspiration in the magic meetings and moments in life that are like little film-clips. Also, I have my heroes, who I return to all the time. They include Frida Kahlo, Coco Chanel and Edith Piaf because of the heart and soul they bled into their work. I think it is very important to flee from everyday life and dream away. I like a little touch of working-class hero mixed up with glamour and decadence. Yes, indeed. I also do my own line of clothing, and I love the combination of this...
Bill Blass
Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Winnie Award, 1961, 1963, 1970 Gold Coast Award, Chicago, 1965 National Cotton Council Award, New York, 1966 Coty American Fashion Critics, Menswear Award, 1968 Neiman Marcus Award, Dallas, 1969 Coty American Fashion Critics, Hall of Fame Award, 1970 Coty American Fashion Critics, Special Citations, 1971, 1982, 1983 Point Council Award, 1971 Martha Award, New York, 1974 Honorary Doctorate, Rhode Island School of Design, 1977 Ayres Look Award, 1978...
faces hands and feet
These features can be drawn using various line thickness, and even just an impression of a line to produce an array of different expressions, styles and characters. Observe the line work and shading techniques these artists have used to express the fashion face, hands and feet. Fashion faces, hands and feet illustrated by top left to right Foschini, Alissa, Anne Rees, below Alissa Stytsenko-Berdnik. Note the different line effects and shading techniques to produce these stylised features
For More Information
Batterberry, Michael, and Ariane Batterberry. Fashion The Mirror of History. New York Greenwich House, 1982. Corson, Richard. Fashions in Hair The First Five Thousand Years. London, England Peter Owen, 2001. Symons, David J. Costume of Ancient Greece. New York Chelsea House, Trasko, Mary. Daring Do's A History of Extraordinary Hair. New York Flammarion, 1994. A hood-like hat with a pointed top, the Phrygian cap was introduced to ancient Greece around 500 b.c.e. from the nearby A Greek man...