Henna Stains
A reddish powder or paste made from the dried leaves of the henna bush, known by the scientific name of Lawsonia inermis, henna has been used to decorate the human body for thousands of years. Many historians believe that henna could have been used by people to decorate their hands and feet as long ago as 7000 b.c.e. After the religion of Islam, also known as the Muslim religion, was founded around 620 c.e., intricately patterned henna tattoos, also called mehndi, became an important part of...
Fitting Everyone
Proportional systems based on bust or chest measurements combined with height for adults or age girls and boys are the foundation for sizing patterns. Developed by tailors, the systems assume that all human bodies are shaped according to common geometric or proportional rules. Thus the patterns are made for an idealized figure. Early pattern diagrams and full-size patterns such as Mme Demorest and Harper's Bazar in the 1850s and 1860s, and Vogue as late as 1905, were not available in a range of...
Who Is This Book For
For the purpose of this book the term fashion illustration is broad. It covers a wide range of art work created by fashion designers and fashion illustrators. Under the umbrella of fashion illustration, this book focuses on the fundamentals of fashion drawing and presentation throughout the design process. As the fashion-design student must present fashion ideas to gain employment on graduation, Fashion Illustrator explores the skills required to create an effective portfolio. Imaginative...
Roman Headwear
The costume traditions of the ancient Romans were, in general, fairly simple. Romans did not tend to wear hats or decorative headdresses throughout the long history of their civilization, which lasted from the founding of the city of Rome in 753 b.c.e. to the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 c.e. But this does not mean that Roman customs and traditions of hair and hairstyling were not important. In fact, Romans had some interesting rituals relating to hair. They believed that washing their hair...
Costume Jewelry
Adornments for the body that are made of precious metals and stones are called jewelry, and jewelry is given the name costume jewelry when it is not made from precious materials. Costume jewelry provides an inexpensive way to add glamour and sparkle to fashion because it is usually made of cheap materials, such as glass or plastic rather than diamonds and emeralds, and plain steel, brass, or copper, rather than gold and silver. Though costume jewelry has been worn during many periods, it had a...
Likely To Scumble
As the judge remarked about my life. 'Its like paint parts are opaque, parts transparent, and parts somewhere in between, according to how much light is able to pass through the tiny particles of your credibility.' But he was right about the paint. It can be opaque, transparent, and somewhere in between, according to how much light is able to pass throught the tiny particles of pigment. Transparent pigments are like tiny colored crystals, whereas opaque pigments are like little colored or white...
Beaded Handbags
Vomen have been carrying purses or small handbags since the Middle Ages c. 500-c. 1500 . Though the first purses were simple leather pouches covered with a flap, women soon developed purses and handbags into decorative accessories that could be matched to their outfits and adorned with all manner of ornament. From 1900 to 1918 one of the more popular styles was the beaded handbag. This small bag, about the size of a grapefruit or smaller, was made of fabric that was covered in small beads. A...
Interpersonal Social Power and Dress
While the government of a society is involved in regulations concerning dress, customs concerning dress often involve the use of dress as a symbol to communicate interpersonal social power. Interpersonal social power is defined as the potential to have social influence French and Raven 1959 . Social influence refers to a change in the behavior or belief of a person as a result of the action or presence of another person Raven 1992 . A typology originally developed by French and Raven and...
East 2nd Street
Looking through the glass into the show window is really like looking at the stage - with this difference the actors, in art terms, are speaking plastics in motion, whereas the merchandise is a silent, static object.461 The show window is related to art, but also to theatre. Frederic Kiesler provides some examples in which he shows images of avantgarde stage settings of his day so that their artistic principles can be applied to the creation of backgrounds for the retail theatre.462 We will...
Glove Of King Charles I
MANY relics connected with the White King are to be found in private collections, and probably the most interesting of such relics are those used by His Majesty on the day of the execution. The glove here illustrated, by a drawing by the Author, is said to have been given to an attendant on the scaifbld, bv the King. It is of white leather, the seams of the fingers are stitched with silver thread, and tiny silver spangles are grouped on the knuckles the embroidery on the gauntlet and the lace...
Kataginu
ICataginu are men's vests with broad, wing-like shoulders, worn with hakama, or trousers, to form a kamishimo, or complementary outfit. The hakama are worn in a contrasting color or fabric from the kataginu. Also worn are naga-bakama, trousers in the same fabric as the kataginu, giving the impression of an elegant coverall called naga-gamishimo. The costume is designed for maximum mobility in swordplay or the martial arts. It was historically worn for combat by samurai warriors. It combined...
and Incas 1
B arly Central and South Americans cared for their hair by washing, combing, and styling it. Atop their carefully styled hair, Mayan, Aztec, and Inca men and women wore hats and headdresses of many different styles. Elite Mayan men and women styled their hair to show off their pointed heads, crafted through the careful head flattening they experienced as children. Women gathered their long hair on top of their heads in flowing ponytails. For special occasions they braided their ponytails and...
Chapter 7 Fashion
Silverstein, M., Fiske, N. and Butman, J. 2004 Trading Up Why Consumers Want New Luxury and How Companies Create Them, New York Portfolio Books. Tungate, M. 2005 Fashion Brands Branding Style from Armani to Zara, London Kogan Page. Time, Style amp Design, Spring 2004, 2005, 2006. Time, Style amp Design, Summer 2006. Luxury Briefing, July August 2004. Luxury Briefing, June 2005. Luxury Briefing, July August 2005. Luxury Briefing, September 2005. Luxury Briefing, October 2005. Luxury Briefing,...
Knight
Cotton shoe laces with metal and plastic tips Cotton shoe laces with metal and plastic tips Rucon produces model RC-ZH-050, women's slides with polyester upper lining and insole, sponge and EPE midsole, and TPR outsole. Holes are punched onto the sole in the area where the thong strap upper should be in place. EVA is adopted for both the insole and outsole. PE, TPR and rubber are outsole materials as well. The upper can come in PVC, EVA, PU, canvas or nylon webbing. The second process is...
New Products 1
Hong Kong Intersales HK Ltd is offering model KG1442-S, a 7GG scarf trimmed with pompoms. Designed for women, the two-layer product comes in 70 percent lamb's wool, 20 percent angora and 10 percent nylon. It is available in various geometric patterns such as diamonds, snowflakes and herringbone. The scarf is 22cm wide and 160cm long. Color specifications are accepted. One piece is fitted with a care label and hangtag and then packed in a polybag. FOB Hong Kong or Yantian price is 6.20. The...
Africa Subsaharan History Of Dress
African dress, like dress everywhere, communicates age, gender, occupation, ethnicity, power, and religious commitment for everyday, celebratory, ceremonial, and ritual occasions. Along with fashionable Western dress, Africans wear Islamic and indigenous apparel. Dress involves totally or partially covering the body by supplementing it with apparel and accessories such as head wraps and jewelry and modifying the body itself with tattoos or piercing. Dressing well for Africans involves proper...
Byzantine Fashions
All rights reserved under Pan American and International Copyright Conventions. Published in Canada by General Publishing Company, Ltd., 895 Don Mills Road, 400-2 Park Centre, Toronto, Ontario M3C 1W3. Published in the United Kingdom by David amp Charles, Brunei House, Forde Close, Newton Abbot, Devon TQ12 4PU. Byzantine Fashions is a new work, first published by Dover Publications, Inc., in 2002.
FifteenthCentury Clothing
I he fifteenth century saw transformations in the nature of costume and culture that are key to our understanding of Western fashion. Up until the fifteenth century, the clothing customs of most cultures had been determined by tradition, the availability of certain kinds of fabric, and the skill of the tailor. Ancient Egyptians wore similar clothing for nearly thirty centuries, for example, and the long wool garments worn by Europeans in the sixth century were not that different from those worn...
Earn while you learn fashion drawing Hxr
Spontaneous drawing is very important in fashion illustration. More and more fashion artists are presenting fashion figures as real people. The idea that fashion figures should look like show types or mannikins is being discarded. After you have roughly sketched your figure for proportions, using o continuous, spontaneous, sweeping line to exaggerate movement, you will find the movement of the figure is increased as you put in the accent lines to give detail to the garment. This will occur...
Roman Body Decorations
l oman attitudes toward the grooming and decoration of their bodies changed dramatically over the course of the long history of their civilization. From the serious and simple habits of the eighth-century-b.c.e. founders of the city of Rome, Romans became increasingly concerned with bathing, jewelry, and makeup. By the time of the Roman Empire 27 b.c.e.-476 c.e. , bathing had become an elaborate public ritual, wealthy Romans imported precious jewels from throughout their vast empire, and women...
Bliaut
The bliaut was a long gown worn by wealthy men and women beginning in the 1100s. Along with the houppelande, a long, full, outer garment, the bliaut was one of the long garments most associated with the late Middle Ages c. 500-c. 1500 . One of the most striking things about the bliaut was the sheer amount of fabric used in its construction. Bliauts had many, many folds and drapes, and thus used twice as much fabric as might be needed for a flat skirt. Women's bliauts often had hundreds of...
i The Foundation
Inappropriately scaled clothing is the root cause lor the contemporary man's current lack of sartorial distinction. Obsolescence in menswear is built upon the manipulation of the classic proportions, sometimes in ways that do nor flatter, as flared bottoms, overly shouldered jackets, and square-toed shoes attest. It is said that the quality of a chef can be judged by his consomme, l ikewise, a man's dressing skill rests on his ability to wear the simplest clothes to individual perfection. This...
Chappals
Chappals, a simple type of leather sandal, provide the foot with basic protection from hot surfaces and rough terrain. Made with flat soles attached to the foot by straps that encircle the top of the foot and big toe, chappals became a common type of footwear in India by the third century c.e. and remain the most typical foot covering today. Chappals are popular among men, women, and children of all religions throughout India and surrounding countries such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Sri...
Lesson Earn while you learn fashion drawing Wku
In drawing tots and very small children, always try to capture their moods. They should always appear as little human beings whether they are sad, glad, pensive or just coquettish. Perhaps it is a tot licking his fingers after being in the jelly far. Whatever the subject, your drawings should picture little people in a gay world. This may seem difficult at first, but with close observation and much sketching, you will soon capture the spirit. In rendering facial expressions, it is wise to keep...
Footwear of Early Asian Cultures
I he Chinese were one of the first ancient peoples to develop a wide range of footwear. Shoes made from woven and stitched straw have been dated to about 5000 B.C.E. and tanned leather footwear with stitching has been dated to about 2000 B.C.E. Given the wide ranges of climate found in China, the types of shoes worn varied considerably by region. People in the warmer coastal areas wore straw sandals, while those in the colder mountainous regions wore thick leather shoes and knee-length boots....
Jacques Fath
B. September 12, 1912 D. November 13, 1954 Birthplace Lafitte, France Award Neiman Marcus Award, 1949 Jacques Fath was destined to be a couturier his great grandmother had been a dressmaker to the Empress Eugenie but his path to fulfilling his destiny was not a direct one. Fath considered pursuing a career as either an actor or businessman, and he studied bookkeeping and law at the Commercial Institute in Vincennes, France. However, Fath's true love was fashion, and in 1937 he and one fitter...
Later and NonEuropean Developments
Although the majority of the European countries gave up uniforms for most of their governmental officers at the Diplomats discuss the Treaty of Ghent, 1814. Early nineteenth-century, European diplomatic uniform boasted tailcoats with standing collar, breeches, and gold embroidery. A sword and two-cornered plumed hat, not pictured, completed the ensemble. The Granger Collection, New York. Reproduced by permission. Diplomats discuss the Treaty of Ghent, 1814. Early nineteenth-century, European...
the objective
Take a more detailed look at clothes with which you Focus your mind on different styling possibilities and Think of the best ways of representing the fabrics and overall image of the clothes you are portraying. This selection of tailored jackets, trousers, and a skirt seemed likely to work well together as a collection. Photograph the pieces you select, cut out the photographs, and then make some pencil sketches pairing Items together. This selection of tailored jackets, trousers, and a skirt...
the process 1
Hang up the garments or lay them out on the floor. Take photographs and doodle some figures on sketch paper to come up with ideas for poses. Try out paints and crayons to create a color palette that, with some artistic license, represents the actual color of the garments. Next, try to give the collection an overall look. This can be achieved by applying common themes to the series of illustrations. For example, you could draw the figures in similar poses, or represent them all in a minimalist...
Presenting your work
Fashion designers are in the business of visual communication, and effective presentation of work is all important. Your brain may be teeming with innovative ideas and you may produce the most original designs, but none of this will matter if you are unable to communicate your vision. In the fashion business, first impressions really do count. When you show your work, you need to ensure that your presentation looks as professional as possible organized, well mounted, and clean, as well as...
Vaquero Dress
Vaqueros of Mexico, the most direct ancestor of the American cowboy, also wore clothing that resembled the clothes worn in Spain, though there were differences. The low-crowned hat, bolero jacket, sash, and spurred boots remained, but a new form of dress developed in the North American Southwest. Armas were an early form of chaps made of slabs of cowhide hung from the saddle and folded back to protect a vaquero's legs from the thorny brush that was part of the New World environment. Cha-parejos...
Earn while you learn Gbu
This junior figure is presented in a casual sports pase. Note the simplicity of washes and how the dark accent lines bring out the shape of the figure. Teen-agers and uniors do not quite have the naturalness and rhythm possessed by children because they ore at the age when they try to act a bit sophisticated which is not quite natural for them. Girls, for example, try to present a ladylike air a bit beyond their years, and they are very conscious of heir coiffures and of their trimness. Observe...
The Death of Fashion
In the beginning of this book, we asked how fashion dies. And we decided to choose the fashion show window in the moment of the death of fashion the seasonal sale of the past collection as our object of research in order to find it. This choice represents an emphasis on the aesthetic aspects of dramatisation, rather than on social or economic reasons for the death of a fashion collection. When we say death, we use the term in a metaphorical way in order to emphasise that the garments are no...
Business lessons from Armani
1 It is imperative for a luxury brand that wants to remain competitive in the market to understand everything about its consumers. 2 It is possible to successfully extend a luxury brand into several sub-categories without diluting the brand equity. This strategy however requires meticulous crafting, implementation and management. 3 Brand and product stretching beyond 'traditional' luxury goods categories is a viable strategy but needs effective management and an alignment of all the brand...
Indian Footwear
I n the chilly Himalayan mountain northern regions of India, a variety of boots and shoes have been made over the centuries to protect the feet from cold and rainy weather. These boots and shoes are made of leather, wool, and plant fibers. But since the weather in most of India is warm, shoes were not necessary, and for much of history, Indians went barefoot. Without the need for footwear, Indian culture developed a unique history of praising the feet. Mothers massage the feet of their babies....
History Of Fashion Imagery By Jeanjacques Naudet
Fashion photographers are tastemakers and workhorses, artists and salesmen. Their imagery reflects the culture they work in, but there is no denying their influence in shaping culture as well. When the first illustrated fashion magazines emerged in the 1890s, the ideals of fashion rested squarely with an aristocracy of style. In a large sense, the beginning of fashion photography and its profound cultural impact can be traced back to the 1920s, when a pioneering The 1940s brought war and the...
Chadar
This man wears a heavy brown wool chadar over his shoulders and arms, most likely for warmth. Reproduced by permission of Lindsay HebberdJCORBIS. This man wears a heavy brown wool chadar over his shoulders and arms, most likely for warmth. Reproduced by permission of Lindsay HebberdJCORBIS. The chadar, also spelled chador or chadoor, is a multipurpose garment worn by many people in India since before the third century c.e. Indians and others living in countries of the Middle East continue to...
Roman Body Decorations
l oman attitudes toward the grooming and decoration of their bodies changed dramatically over the course of the long history of their civilization. From the serious and simple habits of the eighth-century-b.c.e. founders of the city of Rome, Romans became increasingly concerned with bathing, jewelry, and makeup. By the time of the Roman Empire 27 b.c.e.-476 c.e. , bathing had become an elaborate public ritual, wealthy Romans imported precious jewels from throughout their vast empire, and women...
GoGo Boots
In the swinging mid-1960s a stylish young woman would never be caught on a discotheque dance floor without her go-go boots bold, white, or candy-colored vinyl or leather boots of various heights. Usually worn with miniskirts or dresses, go-go boots were pulled on, laced up, or zippered up, and featured a wide range of heels. The height of the leg-hugging boot was determined by the length of the skirt to be worn with it. Often the shorter the skirt was, the taller the accompanying boot. The term...
Turbans 1
From ancient times until the present day, the most common headwear for Indian men has been a turban. A turban is a length of cloth wrapped in a specific way around the top of the head. Most commonly worn outdoors, turbans can also be worn indoors. Woven of cotton, silk, or wool, turbans can be simple or very ornate. The type of fabric, patterns or colors on the fabric, length of fabric, and wrapping technique used for the turban indicate the wearer's social status, religion, ethnicity, and, in...
Exploring collage
As a designer it is essential that you explore all the drawing and illustration tools available to you. One of the most liberating techniques is collage. There are so many ways to use this medium you can use bold cutouts of colored paper, tonal newsprint, or colors and textures torn from magazines. An unusual way of working with collage is to take the technique into the life class. Either by freehand ripping or more detailed cutting you can represent an illustration without drawing at all. Just...
Minoan Dress
The Minoans, who lived on the Greek island of Crete between 3000 and 1600 b.c.e., had a very complex culture, more advanced than many of the societies that followed it. This complexity is shown in the artistically designed and skillfully made clothing they wore. Much of our knowledge of this clothing comes from artwork that has been found at the sites where the Minoans lived, thousands of years before most recorded history. The society of ancient Crete was largely unknown to modern people until...
Photoshelter 1
1. Anne Saint Marie, tor a Chanel ad campaign, New York, 1958. 2. Mary Jane Russell, for Harper's Bazaar magazine, New York, 1950. Few events in the history of fashion photography rival the serendipitous reemergence of images by legendary photographer and art director Lillian Bassman in the early 1990s. The prot g e of Harper's Bazaar designer Alexey Brodovitch, Bassman was a key member of his Design Laboratory at the New School for Social Research in the early 1940s, and she later art-directed...
Lillian Bassman
suality. Liberated from their former contexts, the pictures allowed Bassman to write herself back into the history books at age 80 with a sexy self-titled monograph released in 1997 and edited by Harrison. In the years after the release of her book, Bassman's work enjoyed a renaissance, and she began photographing couture in Paris once again this time with her models swathed in he creations of John Galliano and Christian Lacroix. These seductive, smoky, black-and-white prints, perhaps more than...
Designs and Artistic Hallmarks
Steele's sophisticated signature was evident throughout his collections of adaptable, supercharged, and sensuous clothing. He combined non-extreme styling, figure-flattering cuts of industrial luxe such as metal-based fabric , and studied, monochromatic color schemes. He built thematic groups, ranging from techno to viva-glam stretch cashmere Singer 1998, p. 352 , all produced in shiny PVC, fiber-optic nylon, angora, marabou, perforated rubber, glossed chiffon, raffia spikes, netted Swarovski...
American Cultures
I Native Americans across the North American continent adorned their bodies in a variety of different ways. From designs applied directly to the skin to elaborate ornaments crafted of symbolic materials, Native American body decoration was very important to the religious and social life of tribal members. In many tribes the skin was considered a canvas on which to paint or tattoo designs. Although warriors used paint to prepare for battle, body painting was not only used for war paint. Painted...
Museums Illustration And Costume Galleries
A number of museums offer reduced rales to students or free admission on certain days. Centra Internationale Arti e del Costume Tel 39 41 523 1680 www.palazzograssi.it Galerla del Costume Piazza Pitti 50125 Firenze Italy Located in a wing of the Palazzo Pitti Kemnatenstrasse 50 8 Munich 19 Germany Kunstbibliothek Staatliche Museen zu Berlin Matthaikirchplatz 6 10785 Berlin Germany Antwerp Fashion ModeMuseum Natlonalestraat 28 B - 2000 Antwerpen Belgium Tel 32 0 3 470 2770 Email info momu.be Mus...
Vertical Versus Horizontal
When I was just getting started in photography, one of my mentors taught me this amusing saying When's the best time to take a horizontal image After a vertical. When's the best time to take a vertical image After a horizontal. In other words, try both vertical and horizontal images. With digital photography, you should feel even more willing to experiment and capture multiple shots because there are no extra costs except your time. We are used to shooting landscapes horizontally, but there may...
Value differences Tonal this is the value difference on the grey scale between
This factor should be approached completely independently of any color considerations and for practical purposes we shall assume one light source and one direction not backlighting . The artist will usually limit these tonal divisions to a minimum of two and a maximun of four with the following approximations Fur and wool - two - with little value difference between highlight and shadow Flax-linen and heavy cotton - three - values between highlights and middletones closest Satin - three -...
Shade Overhang or Doorway
This is probably one of my favorite lighting solutions when shooting a subject on location. It's great for cloudy days and sunny days alike, and it's a way to create extremely flattering light. You simply put your subject in the shade of a doorway, porch overhang, or covering. This situation would not work in the shade of a tree or building, because you need a definite opening or distinctive covering for shade. Figure 8.12 shows two brothers in a cave opening on the beach. This opening acts the...